Day 43 Depopulation in The Great Plains

Nickerson, KS to Larned, KS via nowhere

Today 62.7 miles

Total 2198.5 miles

It’s no secret that the population of The Great Plains has been declining since the Depression, but observing the reality on the ground, mile by mile, is really quite startling. Today I traveled 62 miles, in a dead straight line West and passed perhaps five dwellings. Some of the land is being utilized for crops and pastureland, but large swaths are lying fallow, no longer tended by anyone. There is evidence of former dwellings, mostly clumps of trees with some kind of trail leading into them, but even that evidence is sparse. A cowboy told us that he lost his job and is not likely to get another because the land is being bought by rich outsiders for use as occasional hunting venues. Whether this is good or bad is hard to say. The land was only marginally productive in the best of times and required huge amounts of scarce water. But the effects on towns like Larned is devastating! In the end, it will most likely revert to the Buffalo.


Part of the map of today’s ride. It’s pretty hard to get lost!


I’m still riding with Mike and John. They’re those dots in the distance!


We passed self supported racers traveling East on the same route all day. Top contenders cover the distance in 18 days. Donica from Dublin was the only one to stop. He had 180 miles of today’s 220 to cover and frankly seemed a bit delirious. He said he had enough water and sunscreen and pushed on. The other riders we passed seemed to be in a Zen-like state. Hope he made it ok!


The Santa Fe Trail survey team camped here in 1825 near the river which has since moved a quarter mile away.

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